Beauty In Five

The daily five-minute brief on the beauty business.

Daily brief · 5 min
0:00 / 5:23

The day's stories

01

Sephora to open beauty halls inside M&S

WWD Beauty reports Sephora will launch inside Marks & Spencer in spring 2027, putting up to 100 new UK doors in play for brands.

Sephora at M&S will launch in the spring of 2027 and reach up to 100 doors, according to WWD Beauty, with the Daily Record and modaes.com also reporting the tie-up. The arrangement places a specialty beauty retailer inside a UK grocer's existing footprint. For brands, it opens a distribution channel to plan against ahead of the launch date. Door-by-door timing and assortment have not been detailed in the reporting.

02

US and China agree tariff cuts on $30 billion of trade

Global Cosmetics News reports cosmetics sit on China's tariff-cut list, which would lower landed costs for US beauty exporters.

Full story

The US and China have agreed to reduce tariffs on approximately US$30 billion worth of bilateral trade, per Global Cosmetics News, with cosmetics among the US products included in China's tariff-cut list. If applied as reported, the change would lower landed costs for US beauty exporters selling into China. The report does not specify the implementation schedule or the full product scope, so exporters would need both confirmed before resetting pricing.

03

Celebrity beauty brands close as others scale

WWD Beauty reports several celebrity lines shuttered this year while Rhode and Rare Beauty grew, prompting scrutiny of what separates them.

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From Scarlett Johansson's The Outset to Gwen Stefani's Gxve Beauty, this year has seen a number of celebrity beauty brands shutter despite the success of counterparts like Rhode and Rare Beauty, according to WWD Beauty. The split has brand teams and investors examining which factors separate the two groups. The reporting frames celebrity backing as one input among several rather than the deciding variable.

04

Ingredient-led brands lead Amazon beauty in August

WWD Beauty reports clinical, ingredient-driven skin and hair brands took the platform's top 10 slots in August.

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Ingredient-driven skin and hair brands are winning on Amazon, with WWD Beauty publishing the top 10 players for August. The composition of that list is a signal on how shoppers are searching and which claims convert on the platform. WWD Beauty does not report the underlying sales figures or methodology behind the ranking.

Also moving today

  • Molton Brown launches Scent Pavilion retail concept in UK Cosmetics Business
  • Multigenerational Campaigns Drive Major Gains for Top Brands WWD Beauty
  • Lip liners rise as lip fillers fall: How this make-up product found a new era of growth Cosmetics Business
  • Diane Perfect Beauty Expands US Distribution with Target Launch Global Cosmetics News
Read the transcript
Welcome in, today is Wednesday, September thirtieth, and we begin with WWD Beauty on Sephora's move into Marks and Spencer stores across the UK. Sephora is coming to Marks and Spencer. Per WWD Beauty, the two have agreed a partnership branded Sephora at M and S, launching in the spring of twenty twenty-seven, online and in up to one hundred stores. For brands, that is up to one hundred new doors of prestige distribution to plan against well ahead of the opening. That same reporting describes a shop-in-shop format alongside Sephora's destination stores and boutiques, carrying skin care, makeup, fragrance, hair care and body care, with dedicated beauty advisers in store and nationwide delivery and Click and Collect. The final brand line-up comes closer to launch, and M and S says it will keep investing in its own-brand beauty alongside Sephora exclusives. Modaes reports the doors span high streets and retail parks, and that the LVMH-owned chain has used the same partnership route in Spain through its joint venture with El Corte Inglés. Industry reaction leans celebratory, though a recurring counterpoint is the mixed track record of beauty concessions inside a host retailer, with some pointing to one large US retailer's retreat from that model as reason to watch execution rather than assume the hundred-door target lands. Also today, a trade change with a line item for beauty. Global Cosmetics News reports the United States and China have agreed to cut tariffs on roughly thirty billion dollars of bilateral trade, with cosmetics among the US products on China's tariff-cut list. Per that account, the arrangement covers seventy-seven categories of Chinese goods entering the US and one thousand six hundred and nineteen categories of US goods going the other way, and China's Ministry of Commerce said about ninety percent of covered products would drop to most-favoured-nation rates. Landed costs for US exporters into China move with that, which reads straight through to price architecture. No effective date appears in that reporting. Industry reaction leans toward treating this as a framework rather than a price change: a recurring concern is that no timeline is defined, both sides still have domestic procedures to clear, and some note that chips and electric vehicles were left out and that the arrangement carries an expiry. Separately, WWD Beauty makes the case that celebrity is no longer the variable deciding a beauty brand. The piece sets this year's wind-downs, Scarlett Johansson's The Outset and Gwen Stefani's Gxve Beauty among them, against Rhode, Rare Beauty, Haus Labs and Cécred scaling. The argument runs that a famous founder buys awareness, earned media and first trial, but cannot buy the second or third purchase, which comes from product efficacy, innovation cadence and retail execution. That read is sized with Circana data in the same piece, putting celebrity brands at roughly five percent of US prestige fragrance and about one percent each of prestige makeup, skin care and hair, against makeup-artist brands at some forty-five percent of prestige makeup. Reaction from independent founders leans toward a distribution grievance: some argue shelf access still tracks fame rather than durability. Now, where the volume is going. WWD Beauty's August ranking of the top ten beauty brands on Amazon finds ingredient-driven, clinically positioned skin and hair brands taking the leading places, which is a read on how shoppers search on the platform and which claims convert. Practitioner reaction is more cautious. Some push back that Amazon rank is not business health, and say the tests are repeat purchase and what survives advertising and platform fees, with category leaders climbing the charts while unit economics erode named as the canary. Now, a few more headlines moving the trade today. Molton Brown has launched a Scent Pavilion retail concept in the UK, per Cosmetics Business, an immersive fragrance format taking the British brand beyond conventional retail. WWD Beauty reports on a new Launchmetrics study finding beauty brands increasingly using multigenerational campaigns to lift engagement and revenue. Cosmetics Business argues modern plumping and defining lip liners are growing as a cheaper, less invasive alternative to lip filler. And finally, Global Cosmetics News reports Japanese hair care brand Diane Perfect Beauty has launched nationwide at Target, widening its US distribution in store and online.