Beauty In Five

The daily five-minute brief on the beauty business.

Daily brief · 5 min
0:00 / 4:49

The day's stories

01

Rhode Enters 19 European Markets Via Sephora

WWD Beauty reports Rhode is launching across more than 500 Sephora doors in continental Europe, setting a distribution benchmark for celebrity-founded brands.

Rhode, the beauty brand founded by Hailey Bieber, is expanding into 19 new European markets through more than 500 Sephora stores, according to WWD Beauty, with the rollout also reported by FinanzNachrichten.de. The scale of the launch places the brand in continental Europe's largest prestige retail network in a single move. Reports frame it as a test of how far a celebrity-founded brand can scale physical distribution at once. Peer brands expanding in the region are likely to be measured against the 19-market, 500-door figure.

02

P&G Drops Braun IPL Claims After AGCM Inquiry

Cosmetics Business reports Procter & Gamble withdrew advertising claims for a Braun hair-removal device after Italy's competition authority opened an investigation, raising the substantiation bar for beauty-tech marketing.

Full story

Procter & Gamble has dropped claims made in advertising for a Braun IPL hair-removal device following an investigation by Italy's competition authority, the Autorità Garante della Concorrenza e del Mercato (AGCM), per Cosmetics Business and Global Cosmetics News. The authority said the adverts may have misled consumers. The reports describe the claims as withdrawn rather than adjudicated, and the proceeding's final outcome has not been detailed in the coverage. Marketers of beauty devices selling into the EU may face closer scrutiny of performance claims as a result.

03

The Outset Ceases Trading After Four Years

Cosmetics Business reports the skin-care brand co-founded by Scarlett Johansson has stopped trading, a closure that marks the cost side of the founder-led model.

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The Outset, the skin-care brand co-founded in March 2022 by actress Scarlett Johansson and entrepreneur Kate Foster Lengyel, has ceased trading, according to Cosmetics Business. Existing orders will continue to be processed, the report states. No reason for the closure is given in the coverage, and the company has not detailed what happens to the brand's assets. The shutdown comes four years after launch, in a category where celebrity-founded entrants have expanded rapidly.

04

Borletti Group Acquires Italian Beauty Retailer Pinalli

WWD Beauty reports Borletti Group has taken over Pinalli, moving a 100-plus-store Italian chain with a growing private label into institutional ownership.

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Borletti Group has taken over Italian beauty retailer Pinalli, according to WWD Beauty. Pinalli operates more than 100 stores and generated around 200 million euros in revenues last year, the report states, and is building out a private label. The transaction moves another independent European beauty chain under institutional ownership. Brands selling into Italy would, on the reported structure, negotiate with a private-equity-backed buyer that also runs a competing own-brand range.

Also moving today

  • Inside Sephora’s Marks & Spencer and U.K. Strategy WWD Beauty
  • Exclusive: Jo Malone London launches at Space NK to drive UK growth Cosmetics Business
  • What Makes a Beauty Shopper Buy? WWD Beauty
  • EXCLUSIVE: Kiehl’s Brings Experiential European Flagship to London’s Carnaby Street WWD Beauty
  • Dubai Gets Its First Niche Perfumery Fair With Notes Dubai WWD Beauty
Read the transcript
Welcome in, today is Thursday, October first, and we begin with WWD Beauty's exclusive on Rhode's expansion into continental Europe. Rhode is on sale at Sephora across continental Europe. Per WWD Beauty and the company's own announcement, the e.l.f. Beauty-owned brand went live Wednesday in nineteen new countries and more than five hundred Sephora doors, from France and Germany to Poland, Serbia and Turkey. Until now, European shoppers could only buy through the brand's own site. Nineteen markets and more than five hundred doors opening at once moves the brand into physical retail across continental Europe in a single step. That same material dates the move a year after e.l.f. bought Rhode for one billion dollars, and builds on the twenty twenty-five rollout in the United States, Canada and the United Kingdom. Sephora will carry core skin care and hybrid makeup, with select stores rebuilt around the brand, including a takeover of its Champs-Elysees flagship in Paris. Industry reaction leans toward reading the retail entry as pulling volume away from the brand's own channel, alongside a recurring thread about resale activity on region-exclusive launch items. Procter and Gamble has withdrawn advertising claims for its Braun Skin i-Expert hair removal device. Cosmetics Business reports Italy's competition authority, the AGCM, accepted commitments from the company after investigating ads promising users would be hair-free for two years. Per that reporting, P and G agreed to strip the claims from all product advertising and to use wording that makes no reference to how long results take or how long they last. The same account says it also extended its hundred-day money-back guarantee to the thirty-first of December this year, from the thirtieth of June. Global Cosmetics News reports the case is now closed. For anyone advertising beauty devices into the EU, that resets where the substantiation line sits on durability claims. Separately, The Outset has ceased trading. Cosmetics Business reports the skin care brand co-founded by Scarlett Johansson and the entrepreneur Kate Foster Lengyel in March twenty twenty-two told customers on its website it is winding down operations, and gave no reason. Per that account, online shopping has ended, though existing orders will still be processed. Four years from launch to wind-down marks the cost side of the founder-led model. Industry reaction largely reads the closure as another data point in celebrity-founded brands exiting a crowded skin care market, with some pointing to thin awareness and divided founder attention, though that remains speculation with no reason disclosed. Also today, Borletti Group is taking over the Italian beauty retailer Pinalli. WWD Beauty reports the chain counts more than one hundred stores and a growing private label, and turned over around two hundred million euros last year. Brands selling into Italy now negotiate placement with an institutionally owned buyer that is building private label on the same shelves. Now, a few more headlines moving the trade today. Following our earlier report on the Sephora and Marks and Spencer partnership, WWD Beauty has an interview with Sephora Europe and Middle East president Catherine Spindler setting out the thinking behind the United Kingdom build-out. Jo Malone London is launching a limited range at Space NK, per Cosmetics Business, which the Estee Lauder-owned brand says complements its existing footprint and sets up longer-term growth. WWD Beauty reports on a new study from the field-sales firm Beauty Barrage, mapping the biggest pain points and opportunities across the shopper journey at retail. Kiehl's is bringing a thirteen-hundred-square-foot European flagship to London's Carnaby Street, per WWD Beauty, pairing its apothecary heritage with a content studio, a brew bar and in-store skin analysis. And finally, Dubai gets its first niche perfumery fair. Per WWD Beauty, Messe Frankfurt Middle East opens Notes Dubai, a sister event to Notes Shanghai, at the Dubai Mall Exhibition Centre in January.