Beauty In Five

The daily five-minute brief on the beauty business.

Daily brief · 5 min
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The day's stories

01

India clears L'Oréal's Innovist acquisition

The Competition Commission of India has approved L'Oréal India's purchase of Innovist parent Onesto Labs, giving the group ownership of a digital-native brand portfolio in a market reported at around US$30 billion.

Personal Care Insights reports that the Competition Commission of India has approved L'Oréal India's acquisition of Onesto Labs, the parent company behind Innovist. The deal gives the group a set of digital-native Indian brands rather than requiring it to build its own online-first portfolio. According to the report, the transaction points to the weight of young, online beauty buyers in a market analysts size at roughly US$30 billion. Terms and integration plans were not detailed in the report.

02

Shinsegae opens New York pop-up for K-beauty brands

The Korean department store operator will run a monthslong Hyper Ground pop-up in New York carrying more than 30 K-beauty brands, most without existing U.S. retail distribution.

Full story

WWD Beauty reports that Shinsegae will host a monthslong pop-up called Hyper Ground in New York, showcasing more than 30 K-beauty brands. Per the report, most of those brands have not yet launched at U.S. retail. The format gives brands a route into the U.S. market without committing to a standing retail partnership, and gives the retailer a test of its own U.S. presence. The report does not indicate whether the pop-up will convert into permanent distribution.

03

Drunk Elephant's adult repositioning remains unproven

Cosmetics Business examines whether the Shiseido-owned skin care brand's move away from a teen audience is working, an outcome not yet confirmed.

Full story

Cosmetics Business reports that Drunk Elephant has been signalling an adult focus since dropping its 'Please Enjoy Responsibly' campaign in January. The Shiseido-owned skin care brand had become closely associated with a teen audience. According to the report, it is not yet established whether the repositioning is delivering results for the business. Marketers weighing how far an established brand can shift its target demographic are watching the case.

04

Gulf fragrance brands target Latin America

Fragrance accounts for a reported 65% of beauty sales in Latin America, drawing Arabic fragrance houses toward the region and raising the profile of Beautyworld Middle East as a meeting point.

Full story

Premium Beauty News reports that fragrance makes up 65% of beauty sales in Latin America, a share that is drawing Arabic fragrance brands toward the region. Organizers of Beautyworld Middle East describe the trade show as an increasingly important meeting point between Gulf-based houses and Latin American buyers. Per the report, the shift affects which suppliers and which shows regional distributors need to account for. Volume and revenue figures for the trade were not given.

Also moving today

  • Chanel Names Lucia Pieroni to Top Makeup Role WWD Beauty
  • Unilever Ventures invests in hair care brand Arey to drive longevity innovations Cosmetics Business
  • Caroline Hirons’ masterplan to make Skin Rocks a household beauty brand Cosmetics Business
  • Landmark Study Proves Critical Inequalities to Dermatological Care Worldwide WWD Beauty
  • Fenty Skin, Glow Recipe and Huda Beauty’s eye patch packaging ‘K-drama’. What do the experts think? Cosmetics Business
Read the transcript
Welcome in, today is Monday, September twenty-eighth, and we begin with Personal Care Insights on L'Oréal's cleared path into India's digital beauty boom. The Competition Commission of India has approved L'Oréal India's acquisition of Onesto Labs, the parent of skin and hair care house Innovist. Personal Care Insights reports the clearance puts the deal, first announced in June, on track to close in the coming months, with the regulator describing it as the acquisition of one hundred percent of Onesto's shareholding. Terms were not disclosed, though that reporting notes accounts at the time valued the deal near four thousand crore rupees, about four hundred twenty-eight million dollars, with Innovist's founding team staying on to run the business. What L'Oréal gains is online distribution it did not have to build, in a market the same reporting sizes above thirty billion dollars. Industry reaction leans toward reading this as buying demonstrated demand rather than formulation capability. Also today, Korean retailer Shinsegae is making a run at the American beauty market. WWD reports the department store operator will host a monthslong pop-up in New York under its Hyper Ground banner, showcasing more than thirty K-beauty brands, most of which have not yet debuted at U.S. retail. For brands with no American distribution, that is shelf space without a shelf commitment, and for buyers it is one room in which to scout thirty-plus lines at once. Some in the trade read the New York stop less as a debut than as one node in a repeatable export template, noting the same format has been cycling through other Asian markets. Separately, Cosmetics Business is asking whether Drunk Elephant's turn toward adult consumers is actually working. The piece frames the question around the January ‘Please Enjoy Responsibly’ campaign and the Shiseido-owned brand's push to signal it is not just for kids anymore, and it does not settle the answer. That open verdict is what matters to anyone weighing how far an established brand can move its target demographic. Marketing practitioners lean toward calling this a repositioning rather than a rebrand, with a recurring critique that a message of restraint reads as reactive, and a minority arguing an early dip is normal in any repositioning. Now, a number worth filing. Fragrance accounts for sixty-five percent of total beauty sales in Latin America, according to Circana figures reported by Premium Beauty News, a larger share of beauty spending than any other region gives the category. That concentration is why Gulf scent houses are treating the region as a priority, and the same account says Arabic fragrance brands are finding growing openings there. Organizers of Beautyworld Middle East, per that reporting, see the show becoming an increasingly important meeting point between Middle Eastern brands and Latin American buyers and distributors. For regional distributors, it reads as a change in which suppliers belong on the calendar. Now, a few more headlines moving the trade today. WWD reports Chanel has named Lucia Pieroni creative makeup director, putting a named creative lead over artistic direction at one of prestige's largest color businesses. Following our earlier report on Arey's Unilever Ventures-led round, Cosmetics Business says the hair care brand has published its first clinical trial and launched a greying serum, Good Night, Grey. Caroline Hirons tells Cosmetics Business that Skin Rocks, with direct-to-consumer sales up fifty-five percent year to date, is planning a move into Europe and a larger professional business. WWD reports on a study of inequalities in dermatological care worldwide, run by L'Oréal Dermatological Beauty with the International League of Dermatological Societies. And finally, Cosmetics Business has experts weighing in on the near-identical grinder-style under-eye patches from Fenty Skin, Huda Beauty and Glow Recipe, and how much of a format a brand can claim as its own.