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Welcome in, today is Thursday, September twenty-fourth, and we begin with Glossy, on Sephora testing a TikTok Shop presence.
Glossy reports that Sephora, the LVMH-owned retailer, is testing what a TikTok Shop presence looks like, and the argument built around that test is the story. Per that account, TikTok Shop has paired entertainment with frictionless checkout closely enough to become a legitimate competitor to the beauty giants, which puts a prestige retailer inside a channel that also sells straight to its own customers. Industry reaction leans cautious on judging the move by the platform's own sales numbers, with some in the trade describing demand created on social video getting credited later to search, marketplaces or paid social. Others frame it as discovery and conversion collapsing onto one surface, a read in which incumbent retailers have to participate rather than treat the channel as upper funnel, and emerging brands no longer need shelf validation to build demand.
Also today, formulators are working against a fixed clock. Cosmetics Business reports that new EU restrictions on the cyclosiloxanes D5 and D6 take effect on the sixth of June, two thousand twenty-seven, and foundation is where the reformulation problem bites hardest. Per that reporting, D5 is already capped at zero point one percent in rinse-off products. From that date, the same zero point one percent limit applies to D5 in leave-on products, and to D6 in both rinse-off and leave-on. The same account carries formulators at The Cosmetic Experts describing the pair as delivering spreadability, a lightweight feel and even pigment distribution, then evaporating to leave a long-wearing, soft-focus finish, across premium and mass alike. Compliance commentary treats the limits as travelling well beyond Europe, since markets that reference EU ingredient lists dynamically tend to pick them up quickly.
Separately, India's Competition Commission has cleared L'Oréal India to acquire one hundred percent of Onesto Labs, the parent of the digital-first personal-care platform Innovist. Storyboard Eighteen reports the regulator announced the approval on Tuesday, with the shareholding acquired in tranches, and found no appreciable adverse effect on competition in India's beauty and personal-care market, or in the narrower skin-care and hair-care segments it assessed. That removes the regulatory step on the route majors keep using for India growth: buying the digital-native platform rather than building one. Per the same reporting, L'Oréal first announced a majority-stake deal in June, and terms were not disclosed. Onesto sits behind Bare Anatomy, Chemist at Play, SunScoop and Anecdote, sold direct-to-consumer and through e-commerce, quick commerce and offline retail, with the founding team set to stay on.
Staying in India, Global Cosmetics News reports that amendments to the Legal Metrology Packaged Commodities Rules now make vegetarian and non-vegetarian origin labelling mandatory on cosmetics and toiletries, soap, shampoo and toothpaste included. Per that reporting, products of vegetarian origin must display a green dot, with a separate mark required for non-vegetarian origin. That account does not state when the requirement begins to bite. The change sits in packaging law rather than cosmetics law, so it lands on the pack itself, the declaration and the artwork, across every variant already moving through the channel. For anyone selling personal care into India, this is an ingredient-traceability obligation before it is an artwork one, since every mark has to be justified by what is actually in the formula.
Now, a few more headlines moving the trade today. Global Cosmetics News reports Novo Nordisk is exploring hair loss as a potential new category, extending its direct-to-consumer prescription business beyond diabetes and obesity.
Cosmetics Business reports Interparfums has taken the global Puma fragrance license, a name previously produced under L'Oréal and Procter and Gamble.
Premium Beauty News reports Extravaganza Beauty has acquired Roja London, the Mayfair house founded in two thousand eleven, into a group that already holds Amouage and Nishane.
And finally, following our earlier report on Ulta Beauty's wellness push, WWD Beauty ranks the retailer's top ten wellness brands by share of sales in August, drawing on YipitData figures.