Beauty In Five

The daily five-minute brief on the beauty business.

Daily brief · 5 min
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The day's stories

01

Sephora reported to be testing TikTok Shop

Glossy reports the LVMH-owned retailer is trialling a presence on TikTok Shop, putting a prestige retailer inside a channel that also sells direct to its own customers.

Glossy reports that Sephora is testing what a TikTok Shop presence looks like, after the platform's mix of entertainment and low-friction checkout turned it into a competitor to established beauty retailers. The report frames the move as a retailer choosing to participate in a channel rather than compete with it from the outside. Details of the test's scale, assortment and timing were not specified in the report. If it proceeds, it would be a data point for how beauty brands and retailers are weighing social storefronts against existing retail distribution.

02

Formulators face 2027 EU limits on D5 and D6 silicones

Cosmetics Business reports new EU restrictions on the cyclosiloxanes D5 and D6 take effect in 2027, putting foundation reformulation on a fixed clock.

Full story

According to Cosmetics Business, EU restrictions on the cyclic silicones D5 and D6 come into force in 2027, and formulators are now working to rebuild foundations without them. The report describes both challenges and openings in finding replacements that hold the slip and wear consumers associate with silicones. The date is fixed, so the reformulation window is defined rather than open-ended. Which alternative chemistries perform at scale is, per the report, still being worked out.

03

India's competition regulator clears L'Oréal's Innovist deal

The Competition Commission of India has approved L'Oréal India taking 100% of Onesto Labs, parent of digital-first personal-care platform Innovist, removing the regulatory step on the transaction.

Full story

Storyboard18 reports the Competition Commission of India approved L'Oréal India Private Limited's acquisition of 100% of the shareholding in Onesto Labs Private Limited. Onesto Labs is the parent company of Innovist, described in the report as a digital-first personal-care platform. The clearance removes the competition-review step on a multinational taking full ownership of an Indian digital-native brand owner. Acquisition has been the route majors have used to add India growth, and this approval keeps that path open.

04

India mandates vegetarian labelling on cosmetics and toiletries

Global Cosmetics News reports new Indian packaging rules require vegetarian or non-vegetarian origin labelling on cosmetics and toiletries, including soap, shampoo and toothpaste.

Full story

Global Cosmetics News reports India has introduced packaging rules making vegetarian and non-vegetarian origin labelling mandatory on cosmetics and toiletry products. The report names soaps, shampoos and toothpaste among the categories covered, which reaches high-volume mass products. For brands selling personal care into India, the requirement implies both ingredient-traceability work and artwork changes. Compliance timing and enforcement detail were not set out in the report.

Also moving today

Read the transcript
Welcome in, today is Thursday, September twenty-fourth, and we begin with Glossy, on Sephora testing a TikTok Shop presence. Glossy reports that Sephora, the LVMH-owned retailer, is testing what a TikTok Shop presence looks like, and the argument built around that test is the story. Per that account, TikTok Shop has paired entertainment with frictionless checkout closely enough to become a legitimate competitor to the beauty giants, which puts a prestige retailer inside a channel that also sells straight to its own customers. Industry reaction leans cautious on judging the move by the platform's own sales numbers, with some in the trade describing demand created on social video getting credited later to search, marketplaces or paid social. Others frame it as discovery and conversion collapsing onto one surface, a read in which incumbent retailers have to participate rather than treat the channel as upper funnel, and emerging brands no longer need shelf validation to build demand. Also today, formulators are working against a fixed clock. Cosmetics Business reports that new EU restrictions on the cyclosiloxanes D5 and D6 take effect on the sixth of June, two thousand twenty-seven, and foundation is where the reformulation problem bites hardest. Per that reporting, D5 is already capped at zero point one percent in rinse-off products. From that date, the same zero point one percent limit applies to D5 in leave-on products, and to D6 in both rinse-off and leave-on. The same account carries formulators at The Cosmetic Experts describing the pair as delivering spreadability, a lightweight feel and even pigment distribution, then evaporating to leave a long-wearing, soft-focus finish, across premium and mass alike. Compliance commentary treats the limits as travelling well beyond Europe, since markets that reference EU ingredient lists dynamically tend to pick them up quickly. Separately, India's Competition Commission has cleared L'Oréal India to acquire one hundred percent of Onesto Labs, the parent of the digital-first personal-care platform Innovist. Storyboard Eighteen reports the regulator announced the approval on Tuesday, with the shareholding acquired in tranches, and found no appreciable adverse effect on competition in India's beauty and personal-care market, or in the narrower skin-care and hair-care segments it assessed. That removes the regulatory step on the route majors keep using for India growth: buying the digital-native platform rather than building one. Per the same reporting, L'Oréal first announced a majority-stake deal in June, and terms were not disclosed. Onesto sits behind Bare Anatomy, Chemist at Play, SunScoop and Anecdote, sold direct-to-consumer and through e-commerce, quick commerce and offline retail, with the founding team set to stay on. Staying in India, Global Cosmetics News reports that amendments to the Legal Metrology Packaged Commodities Rules now make vegetarian and non-vegetarian origin labelling mandatory on cosmetics and toiletries, soap, shampoo and toothpaste included. Per that reporting, products of vegetarian origin must display a green dot, with a separate mark required for non-vegetarian origin. That account does not state when the requirement begins to bite. The change sits in packaging law rather than cosmetics law, so it lands on the pack itself, the declaration and the artwork, across every variant already moving through the channel. For anyone selling personal care into India, this is an ingredient-traceability obligation before it is an artwork one, since every mark has to be justified by what is actually in the formula. Now, a few more headlines moving the trade today. Global Cosmetics News reports Novo Nordisk is exploring hair loss as a potential new category, extending its direct-to-consumer prescription business beyond diabetes and obesity. Cosmetics Business reports Interparfums has taken the global Puma fragrance license, a name previously produced under L'Oréal and Procter and Gamble. Premium Beauty News reports Extravaganza Beauty has acquired Roja London, the Mayfair house founded in two thousand eleven, into a group that already holds Amouage and Nishane. And finally, following our earlier report on Ulta Beauty's wellness push, WWD Beauty ranks the retailer's top ten wellness brands by share of sales in August, drawing on YipitData figures.