Beauty In Five

The daily five-minute brief on the beauty business.

Daily brief · 5 min
0:00 / 5:23

The day's stories

01

Extravaganza Beauty acquires Roja London

Cosmetics Business and WWD Beauty report a Middle Eastern conglomerate has bought the British haute perfumery house, with funds directed at expansion — another prestige fragrance brand changing hands.

Extravaganza Beauty, a Middle Eastern beauty conglomerate, has acquired British haute perfumery house Roja London, according to Cosmetics Business and WWD Beauty. The reports say the new investment will be directed toward supporting Roja London's expansion. Terms were not disclosed in the coverage. The deal adds to a run of prestige fragrance houses changing ownership, which trade press reads as continued buyer appetite for niche scent.

02

Sephora and Ulta Beauty move onto TikTok Shop

Cosmetics Business reports major beauty retailers are joining a platform it puts at US$4.4 billion in sales, with experts weighing reach against margin and brand control.

Full story

Major beauty retailers including Sephora and Ulta Beauty are joining TikTok Shop, per Cosmetics Business, which reports the platform has generated US$4.4 billion in sales in the US. Experts quoted in the piece weigh the audience reach against questions on margin, brand control and cannibalisation of existing channels. The report frames the moves as a test of whether large retailers can operate in social commerce, and does not state results to date.

03

Interparfums extends Roberto Cavalli license to 2046

WWD Beauty and Premium Beauty News report a two-decade extension on what Interparfums describes as one of its fastest-growing brands — a reference point for fragrance licensing terms.

Full story

Interparfums has extended its Roberto Cavalli fragrance license through 2046, according to WWD Beauty and Premium Beauty News. The reports describe Cavalli as among Interparfums' fastest-growing brands. The extension runs roughly two decades, an example of long-dated licensing deals being used to secure growth brands. Financial terms were not reported.

04

Supergoop! names Coty's Jamie Parker chief commercial officer

Cosmetics Business reports the sun-care brand has created the role for the first time, hiring Coty's former US general manager as it describes entering a next growth stage.

Full story

Supergoop! has appointed Jamie Parker as its first chief commercial officer, Cosmetics Business reports. Parker previously served as senior vice president and US general manager at Coty. The company frames the hire as part of entering its next stage of growth, according to the report. The reporting does not specify which channels or markets the role will prioritise.

Also moving today

  • EXCLUSIVE: ‘Euphoria’ Makeup Artist Donni Davy’s Half Magic Beauty Raises Series A WWD Beauty
  • E45, Nivea and Simple named UK’s most recommended beauty brands Cosmetics Business
  • Coty to Pay Former CFO Through June 2027 Following Leadership Transition Global Cosmetics News
  • Lumson expands global footprint with acquisitions in the US and Asia Premium Beauty News
Read the transcript
Welcome in, today is Monday, September twenty-first, and we begin with Cosmetics Business reporting a Middle Eastern buyer for one of Britain's haute perfumery houses. Roja London has been acquired by Extravaganza Beauty, a Middle Eastern beauty conglomerate. Cosmetics Business reports the independent British house, founded in Mayfair in two thousand eleven by master perfumer Roja Dove, will direct the new investment toward expansion, deepening its presence in key markets and continuing product development across the Prestige, Elysium, Aoud, Isola and Art collections. Financial terms were not disclosed. Per that same account, the two companies already worked together commercially in the Gulf Cooperation Council region. Global chief executive Audrey Minard, in post since twenty twenty-one, stays on to lead strategy, and founder Dove moves to a consultancy role. WWD Beauty reports Minard will work alongside the Extravaganza team to reinforce the business in the Middle East. Another prestige fragrance house changing hands, and another read on where capital is going in niche scent. Also today, a development on our earlier report that Sephora was taking a storefront onto TikTok Shop. Writing in Cosmetics Business, Lynsey Barber argues the open question is not whether the big prestige retailers show up, but whether they can win in social commerce. That analysis puts TikTok Shop fourth among health and beauty ecommerce retailers in the United States, citing NielsenIQ, on four point four billion dollars in sales, and notes the platform says its UK business grew sixty percent year on year last year. Ulta Beauty has set its sights on the channel too, per that read, which turns two of the largest American beauty retailers into a live test of reach against margin, brand control and cannibalisation. Separately, Interparfums has locked in one of its fastest-growing licences for another two decades. Premium Beauty News reports the exclusive worldwide agreement with Marquee Brands, covering Roberto Cavalli and Just Cavalli fragrances, has been extended by twenty years, through the thirty-first of December, twenty forty-six. WWD Beauty describes the brand as among Interparfums' fastest-growing. Industry reaction leans toward reading the length of that term as validation of the pure-play licensing model rather than as a brand-level story, and some in the trade suggest well-executed accessible-premium licences can outrun both mass and ultra-luxury in the current fragrance boom, pointing to duty-free exclusives and Middle East distribution as the playbook. For anyone negotiating fragrance licensing terms, a twenty-year extension sets a visible marker. Staying with commercial leadership, Supergoop! has created a chief commercial officer role and filled it from Coty. Cosmetics Business reports Jamie Parker, most recently senior vice president and US general manager at Coty, starts on the twenty-eighth of September, reporting to chief executive Melis del Rey. Per that reporting, he will run the global commercial organisation across retail, e-commerce and retail marketing, with a brief to expand access to the brand and strengthen strategic retail partnerships and build toward a consistent consumer experience across markets. Del Rey said the ambition for the next chapter is to build Supergoop! into a leading skin health business globally. The role is new and the brief is written around retail, which reads through to distribution rather than to a like-for-like replacement. Now, a few more headlines moving the trade today. WWD Beauty reports exclusively that Donni Davy's Half Magic Beauty has raised a Series A led by Point King Capital, size not disclosed, for retail expansion, new categories and hiring. YouGov's UK Most Recommended Brands twenty twenty-six names E45, Nivea and Simple the most recommended beauty brands, with Dove and Clarins for Men also ranking, per Cosmetics Business. Global Cosmetics News reports Coty will keep paying former finance chief Laurent Mercier his eight hundred twenty-five thousand euro base salary through the thirtieth of June, twenty twenty-seven, after a two-month handover. And finally, Premium Beauty News reports Italian packaging specialist Lumson has acquired Lombardi Design and Manufacturing in the US, alongside a second acquisition in Asia.