Beauty In Five

The daily five-minute brief on the beauty business.

Daily brief · 5 min
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The day's stories

01

UK proposes ban on high-risk cosmetic procedures for teens

Cosmetics Business reports the UK Government has proposed barring under-18s from high-risk procedures and restricting who may perform them — a change to clinic staffing and compliance if adopted.

The UK Government has proposed banning high-risk cosmetic procedures for teenagers and introducing fines for practitioners who breach the rules, according to Cosmetics Business. Under the proposals, certain cosmetic procedures could only be performed by qualified, regulated healthcare professionals. The measures are proposals at this stage and have not been adopted; if they are, they would change who can legally deliver some aesthetic treatments and raise compliance requirements for clinics and the brands supplying them.

02

Puig reports third-quarter sales up 7.2 percent

Puig says every region and both its fragrance and makeup businesses grew in the quarter, giving the prestige sector a same-period benchmark.

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Puig reported third-quarter sales growth of 7.2 percent, per WWD Beauty and Investing.com. The company said all regions contributed to the gains, as did its fragrance and makeup businesses. The result offers a same-quarter reference point against peers reporting slower beauty sales.

03

La Roche-Posay launches first US Anthelios sunscreen with bemotrizinol

Cosmetics Business reports the L'Oréal-owned brand has brought the first new FDA-approved OTC sunscreen filter since 1999 to the US market.

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La Roche-Posay has launched Anthelios UV Defense SPF 50 Sunscreen in the US containing bemotrizinol (BEMT), according to Cosmetics Business. The report describes BEMT as the first new ingredient approved by the FDA for use in over-the-counter sunscreens in the US since 1999. For formulators, the launch is a reference point on whether the FDA pathway is now viable for other filters long used in Europe and Asia.

04

Galderma, Natura and L'Oréal test products for GLP-1 users

Reuters reports three beauty companies are testing treatments aimed at facial volume loss associated with obesity drugs, a segment whose commercial size is still unproven.

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Galderma, Natura and L'Oréal are testing treatments for consumers concerned about facial changes linked to GLP-1 weight-loss drugs, Reuters reported from London and Paris on October 21. The companies are responding to what the report describes as a new market opening alongside the growth in obesity drug use. How large that segment becomes commercially has not been established.

Also moving today

Read the transcript
Welcome in, today is Thursday, October twenty-second, and we begin with Cosmetics Business on a UK crackdown on what the government calls cosmetic cowboys. The UK Government has proposed new rules on cosmetic procedures, per Cosmetics Business. Only qualified and regulated healthcare professionals could perform certain treatments, including liquid Brazilian butt lifts, vampire facials and chemical peels. Per that reporting, fillers injected into parts of the body other than the face would be reclassified as cosmetic surgical procedures under UK law, meaning doctors only. High-risk non-surgical treatments, including deep chemical peels, dermal micro-coring and some lasers, would be limited to doctors, dentists, and nurses, midwives and pharmacists with accredited training. Cosmetic surgery and other high-risk procedures would be banned for under eighteens, extending the twenty twenty-one ban on fillers and botulinum toxin. Breaches would carry new criminal offences, with fixed penalties up to four thousand pounds or unlimited fines. For clinics and their suppliers, the staffing bar moves, not just the procedure list. Practitioner reaction leans toward the registration threshold underneath the headline ban, with a recurring concern being enforcement capacity against unregistered operators. Also today, Puig posted record third-quarter net revenues of one point four billion euros, up seven point two percent reported and five point six percent like-for-like, per Investing dot com, accelerating from four point one percent in the prior quarter. The same reporting puts nine-month revenue at three point seven billion euros, with makeup the fastest-growing segment at twelve percent like-for-like, and Asia Pacific the fastest-growing region at seventeen point nine percent. Skincare splits: dermo-cosmetics growing, premium skincare soft, especially in North America. WWD Beauty reports every region and both the fragrance and makeup businesses contributed, and growth that broad is a same-quarter benchmark for the premium beauty market. Management said it remains confident on its twenty twenty-six outlook. Separately, La Roche-Posay has launched Anthelios UV Defense SPF fifty in the United States, the franchise's first sunscreen formulated with bemotrizinol. Cosmetics Business reports the filter has been used in Europe and Asia for years, but the FDA only added it to the US permitted list this summer, the first new over-the-counter sunscreen active approved in the country since nineteen ninety-nine. For formulators, it is the first live read on whether that pathway is now viable for other filters long used elsewhere. The same reporting says the formula pairs it with an amplified Cell-Ox Shield complex claimed to deliver sixteen-hour antioxidant and anti-pollution defence. Among ingredient-literate consumers, reaction leans toward value skepticism, with a recurring comparison to a cheaper rival bemotrizinol launch at a higher filter concentration. Following our earlier report on GLP-1s and fragrance preference, Reuters now reports the same drug boom opening a skincare and aesthetics market. Galderma, Natura and L'Oréal are each testing treatments for consumers worried about facial sagging and volume loss, the concern popularly labelled Ozempic face. That reporting cites Boston Consulting Group estimates putting revenue from these clinical treatments at about seven hundred million dollars now, rising to two billion over five years. It also carries the counterweight: experts tell Reuters the volume loss tracks rapid weight loss rather than the drugs, and that creams cannot reach the fat layer actually losing volume, which favours injectables and clinical routes. Some practitioners read the spread of GLP-1 claims across whole portfolios, rather than any one product, as the signal. Now, a few more headlines moving the trade today. Interparfums shares rose after third-quarter results. WWD Beauty reports a solid return to growth in Asia, driven by China, and revised full-year sales expectations. Sephora UK managing director Sarah Boyd told Cosmetics Business the twenty twenty-seven plan runs to a third boutique, more large-format stores and the Marks and Spencer shop-in-shop, framed as proximity. Chanel has sold a majority stake in formulation specialist Capsum to Motion Equity Partners, per Premium Beauty News, and remains a minority shareholder. An INSERM study published October twentieth links prenatal exposure to phthalates and bisphenols with children's cognitive development, per Premium Beauty News, and its authors call for stricter limits. And finally, Estée Lauder has appointed former Mattel executive Krista Lee Berger as senior vice president of global marketing at Clinique, per Premium Beauty News.