Beauty In Five

The daily five-minute brief on the beauty business.

Daily brief · 5 min
0:00 / 4:20

The day's stories

01

EU clears Kimberly-Clark's Kenvue deal with divestments

Global Cosmetics News reports the European Commission approved the US$40 billion acquisition on condition that several feminine hygiene brands are sold, setting the terms for the largest personal-care combination now in play.

The European Commission has approved Kimberly-Clark's US$40 billion acquisition of Kenvue, according to Global Cosmetics News. The clearance is conditional on the divestment of several feminine hygiene brands, which the report says addresses competition concerns in the European market. The brands set for divestment are expected to come to market as acquisition targets for European competitors. The report does not name the brands or a timetable for the sales.

02

Galderma to buy ZO Skin Health for US$1.5 billion

Galderma has signed an agreement to acquire the US physician-dispensed skincare brand, per Global Cosmetics News, placing an aesthetics-channel label inside a dermatology group.

Full story

Galderma has signed an agreement to acquire ZO Skin Health, a US physician-dispensed skincare brand, for US$1.5 billion, Global Cosmetics News reports. The company describes the deal as strengthening its dermatological skincare portfolio and expanding its position in medical aesthetics. The transaction is the latest consolidation move in physician-dispensed skincare, tightening the link between medical-aesthetics practices and retail-facing portfolios. Closing conditions and timing were not detailed in the report.

03

Shiseido unit sues Shein in France over cosmetics sales

Beauté Prestige Internationale has filed a €2.6 million unfair-competition claim over sales outside its authorised network, according to Global Cosmetics News, testing how selective distribution holds up against marketplaces.

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Shiseido subsidiary Beauté Prestige Internationale has filed a €2.6 million lawsuit against Shein in France, Global Cosmetics News reports. The claim accuses the online retailer of unfair competition through the sale of cosmetics outside BPI's authorised distribution network. The case tests whether selective-distribution agreements can be enforced against global marketplaces in French courts. The suit has been filed and the outcome is not yet determined.

04

French cosmetics exporters report China customs delays

Industry association Cosmetic Valley links slower clearance into China to trade tensions over European fast-fashion import restrictions, per Global Cosmetics News.

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French cosmetics exporters are experiencing customs clearance delays in China, according to Global Cosmetics News. Industry association Cosmetic Valley attributes the disruption to growing trade tensions over European restrictions on fast-fashion imports. The delays affect shipments into a core growth market for French beauty exports. The link to trade friction is the association's attribution and has not been confirmed by either government.

Also moving today

  • Givaudan Stock Surges, Symrise Opens Scent Center in Singapore WWD Beauty
  • Shein UK Sales Rise 26 Percent to £2.58 Billion, Overtaking Asos Global Cosmetics News
  • PPWR: What UK beauty manufacturers need to know about exporting to Europe Cosmetics Business
  • El Niño Disrupts Indonesian Palm Oil Supply Chains as Rivers Run Low Global Cosmetics News
  • Estée Lauder places Kilian Paris and Frédéric Malle under the leadership of Guillaume Gellusseau FashionNetwork.com
Read the transcript
Welcome in, today is Friday, October sixteenth, and we begin with Brussels clearing the largest personal-care deal on the board, per Global Cosmetics News. The European Commission has approved Kimberly-Clark's forty-billion-dollar acquisition of Kenvue, according to Global Cosmetics News. The clearance comes with conditions. That reporting says Kimberly-Clark has agreed to divest several of its feminine hygiene brands to settle competition concerns in the European market. Two things follow for anyone tracking the category. Once closed, this becomes the largest personal-care combination currently in play, which resets the scale benchmark competitors are measured against. And the divested feminine hygiene brands arrive on the market as assets in search of a buyer, putting established European positions within reach of rivals who have been short of them. The same account is a summary rather than a full decision text. It does not set out which brands transfer, on what timetable, or when the commitments take effect. Also today, consolidation in physician-dispensed skincare. Galderma has signed an agreement to acquire ZO Skin Health for one-point-five billion dollars, per Global Cosmetics News, which describes the US brand as physician-dispensed and frames the deal as strengthening Galderma's dermatological skincare portfolio and its position in medical aesthetics. Read that against where the channel is heading. A dermatology group taking ownership of a brand whose route to the consumer runs through the practice tightens the link between aesthetics clinics and retail-facing skincare ranges, and it moves another independent in that channel inside a strategic owner. That account is a short summary, so terms beyond the headline price, and the expected close, are not stated. Separately, Shiseido is taking Shein to court in France. Global Cosmetics News reports that Beauté Prestige Internationale, a Shiseido subsidiary, has filed a two-point-six-million-euro claim alleging unfair competition, on the basis, per that report, that Shein sold its cosmetics outside the authorised distribution network. The suit is filed and nothing is decided. No court has ruled, and Shein's response is not recorded in that account. What the filing puts in front of the court is enforceability. Selective distribution is standard practice across prestige beauty, and this claim asks whether those agreements bind a global marketplace that never signed them. One more on trade. French cosmetics exporters are facing customs clearance delays in China, per Global Cosmetics News, and the industry association Cosmetic Valley links the disruption to rising trade tensions over European restrictions on fast-fashion imports. That link is the association's reading. Neither government has confirmed it in that reporting. For brands with China in the growth plan, the exposure sits downstream of the border. Industry reaction among supply-chain practitioners leans to the view that the real cost of a clearance delay shows up in out-of-stock listings, lost search ranking and the spend needed to win it back, with some arguing nearer-shore supply is worth a premium for delivery certainty. A smaller strand reads the delays as an early signal of tit-for-tat friction rather than a one-off. Now, a few more headlines moving the trade today. Fragrance supply is still flexing. WWD Beauty reports Givaudan's stock surged and Symrise opened a scent creation centre in Singapore. Following our earlier report on Shein's fifty-three percent operating profit fall, Global Cosmetics News reports UK revenue up twenty-six percent to two-point-five-eight billion pounds, ahead of Asos on disclosed sales. In Cosmetics Business, CHEP's Katie Ingham argues the Packaging and Packaging Waste Regulation reaches transport packaging, pallets, crates and wrap, not only the retail pack. That read is hers, not a regulator's. Global Cosmetics News reports El Niño drought has cut river levels across Indonesia's Kalimantan provinces, disrupting palm oil and coal transport and raising logistics costs. And finally, FashionNetwork reports Estée Lauder has placed Kilian Paris and Editions de Parfums Frédéric Malle under Guillaume Gellusseau, senior vice president, succeeding Sara Donninelli.