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Welcome in, today is Tuesday, September first, and we begin with Premium Beauty News on the first measurable bite of Europe's small-parcel levy.
Premium Beauty News, reporting with AFP, says the European Union's levy on low-value imports is already moving volume. Since the tax on small parcels entering the bloc came in, shipments from Asian e-commerce platforms including Shein, Temu and AliExpress have fallen by an estimated thirty to forty percent, according to French customs figures cited by the French Ministry of the Economy on Thursday, August twenty-seventh. For beauty sellers shipping into Europe, that reads through to cross-border pricing, marketplace competition and duty exposure, though the effect size is still preliminary. Industry reaction leans toward treating this as regulation of the e-commerce model rather than a tax on parcels, with operational questions recurring: who counts as importer of record, how item-level values are validated, and how landed cost appears at checkout. A recurring consumer-side read in that reaction is that volumes may be displaced into workarounds as much as genuinely suppressed.
Also today, a development on the American sunscreen filter pipeline. Following our earlier report on BASF launching Tinosorb S in the United States after FDA approval of bemotrizinol, the first finished product has arrived. Ultra Violette, the Australian suncare brand, announced Monday that its Unblock Screen SPF fifty is the first US sunscreen formulated with bemotrizinol, the filter the FDA cleared in June. That is the brand's own account, and it puts a first date on how quickly the newly opened American filter pipeline reaches shelf. Industry reaction focuses less on the launch than on the exclusivity window attached to the approval, with a recurring view among formulators that sensory performance, not filter access, was always the binding constraint.
Separately, Target's beauty relaunch is drawing scrutiny over its brand mix. Digiday reports that Target Beauty Studio opens September tenth in more than six hundred stores and online, carrying more than sixteen hundred products from ninety brands and replacing the Ulta Beauty shops inside Target stores. Of those ninety, that reporting says Modern Retail could identify only two with Black owners or founders: the hair-care line Briogeo and the cosmetics brand Glamazon Beauty. Around a dozen are Korean brands, and more than two-thirds are new to Target. A Target spokesperson told Modern Retail the collection focused on brands from around the world, and said nearly forty percent were founded by diverse founders, without defining the term. That account adds it is unclear whether brands were not recruited or declined to take part. Curated shelf sets are where retailer diversity commitments now get measured.
Staying with prestige distribution, rhode has dated its European rollout. In an announcement issued Monday, the brand founded by Hailey Rhode Bieber and owned by e.l.f. Beauty says its range reaches Sephora online and most Sephora stores across Europe on Wednesday, September thirtieth, adding nineteen countries including France, Germany, Italy, Spain, Poland and Turkey. Per that release, the launch is exclusive to Sephora in Europe, follows the twenty twenty-five rollout in the United States, Canada and the United Kingdom, and comes a year after e.l.f.'s one billion dollar acquisition of the brand. It is the clearest test yet of whether creator-built demand converts through a legacy prestige retailer at continental scale. Industry reaction tends to watch repeat purchase rather than launch-day revenue, with some reading the move as distribution plus experience rather than a shelf-space deal.
Now, a few more headlines moving the trade today. WWD Beauty reports exclusively that Laura Geller is returning to physical retail through Sephora at Kohl's, entering eight hundred fifty-four doors while continuing its expansion in the United Kingdom and Canada.
Global Cosmetics News reports Mao Geping Cosmetics lifted first-half revenue twenty-six point two percent year on year, to three point two seven billion renminbi, with profit also up by double digits.
The same outlet reports Old Navy is moving into beauty with Old Navy Beauty Co., rolling out its own body care collection alongside third-party brands across its US stores.
And finally, Premium Beauty News reports Amouage is laying the foundations for a new supply chain built on the Omani rose, developed in partnership, to widen a palette currently drawing on roses from Grasse, Turkey and Bulgaria.