Beauty In Five

The daily five-minute brief on the beauty business.

Daily brief · 5 min
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The day's stories

01

Semcap's Petrou takes board seat at Merit

Ex-Unilever Prestige chief Vasiliki Petrou is joining the minimalist brand's board via a Semcap minority investment — a signal of institutional capital entering the minimalist skin-care segment.

Vasiliki Petrou, the former Unilever Prestige CEO who now serves as Managing Partner of Semcap's new Beauty & Wellness vertical, will join US minimalist brand Merit's board following a minority investment, according to Cosmetics Business. The report says Petrou will support the brand's growth and globalisation goals. Cosmetics Business frames the move as an experienced prestige-beauty operator backing the minimalist skin-care category.

02

K18 launches £110 'hair longevity' serum

K18 is extending the anti-ageing 'longevity' framing from skin care into prestige hair care, with benefit claims stated by the brand rather than independently verified.

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K18's FutureIQ Biomimetic Hair Longevity Serum, priced at £110, claims to 'support the scalp environment before visible signs of ageing appear,' per Cosmetics Business. The brand says its MultiVital technology supports oxidative defense, follicle anchoring, pigmentation and scalp resilience. These benefits are as described by K18; Cosmetics Business notes the launch positions the 'longevity' concept, prominent in skin care, within prestige hair care.

03

Beauty bodies criticise hospitality-only business rates cut

Trade voices are calling a new business rates reduction for hospitality venues a 'slap in the face,' framing beauty's exclusion as a sign it sits outside targeted tax support.

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A business rates reduction for pubs, clubs and live music venues, announced by new Prime Minister Andy Burnham, has been branded a 'slap in the face' for the beauty industry, according to Cosmetics Business. The report says the relief's hospitality-only scope has drawn criticism from within the sector. Cosmetics Business frames the reaction as beauty trade voices arguing the industry has been left out of the government's targeted support.

04

Indian beauty brands expand across retail and exports

Indian beauty is being described by industry accounts as both a fast-growing domestic market and an emerging export source as trade barriers ease.

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India's beauty and personal care industry is undergoing what industry accounts describe as transformative growth, marked by domestic expansion and rising demand for science-backed skin care, according to Personal Care Insights. The outlet reports that Indian brands are gaining shelf space overseas as trade barriers ease. The coverage positions the country as both a growth market and an emerging source of dermocosmetics and export activity, per those accounts.

Also moving today

  • GS Global Enters Beauty Distribution With K-Beauty Expansion Into Japan Global Cosmetics News
  • Katia Beauchamp Returns to Beauty With Nail Care Brand WWD Beauty
  • EXCLUSIVE: GHD Launches Sculpt, Its First AI Styling Tool That Adjusts to Hair Temperature, With Zero Damage WWD Beauty
  • Glossy Pop Newsletter: Ulta Beauty to welcome dupe fragrance brand Oakcha to hundreds of stores Glossy
Read the transcript
Welcome in, today is Monday, July twenty-seventh, and we begin with Cosmetics Business reporting that minimalist skin-care brand Merit has taken on institutional beauty capital. According to Cosmetics Business, Merit, the US minimalist brand, has landed a minority investment from Semcap's Beauty and Wellness vertical. The deal was led by Vasiliki Petrou, Semcap's Managing Partner for that vertical and the founder and former chief executive of Unilever Prestige. Petrou will take a seat on Merit's board and, per that reporting, support the brand's growth and globalisation plans. The amount was not disclosed. Her track record carries weight here. She built Unilever Prestige from twenty fourteen, folding in Dermalogica, Paula's Choice, Hourglass, Tatcha and K18, before stepping down last June after a decade at the helm. A former prestige chief taking a board seat signals institutional money moving toward the minimalist skin-care segment. Some in the trade read operator-led minority deals, capital paired with sector expertise at board level, as an emerging template for pushing consumer beauty brands global. Staying with the Unilever stable, K18 is moving into hair longevity. Cosmetics Business reports the brand has launched its FutureIQ Biomimetic Hair Longevity Serum, priced at one hundred ten pounds, pitched as its most significant innovation in years and its biggest launch since the Leave-In Molecular Repair Hair Mask. Per that reporting, the serum uses proprietary MultiVital technology, and the brand says it targets premature hair ageing, supporting oxidative defense, follicle anchoring, pigmentation and scalp resilience, and is backed by ten pending patents. The company frames it as a shift from correction to preservation. It also shows the longevity positioning that reshaped skin care migrating into prestige hair care. Some in the beauty community read the longevity label as keratin treatment repackaged, more branding than breakthrough. Now to policy, and a tax decision the beauty trade is pushing back on. Cosmetics Business reports that the new Prime Minister, Andy Burnham, has announced a twenty percent cut to business rates for pubs, clubs and live music venues, taking effect from April next year, a measure aimed at reviving the high street. The British Beauty Council has branded it a slap in the face. Per the Council's chief executive, Millie Kendall, the relief rewards hospitality while ignoring salons and retailers, and overlooks a personal care sector of more than one hundred ninety-six thousand businesses that outnumbers pubs across most high streets. The stakes for the trade are direct. The same account notes the sector is eighty-six percent female-led, and that rising rateable values are already squeezing salon margins and forcing closures. A recurring concern in the reaction is that the hospitality-only scope leaves beauty, and charities, unaddressed. Also today, a read on India from Personal Care Insights, which frames the country as beauty's next growth chapter. The argument runs like this. India's beauty and personal care market has passed thirty billion US dollars, lifted by rising incomes, urbanisation and a quick-commerce boom, and that momentum is now spilling in several directions. Domestically, the outlet points to Reliance Retail launching Ajio Beauty, carrying more than fifteen hundred brands. On the clinical side, that read tracks dermocosmetics gaining ground, from Korean brand Dr. Melaxin entering through Tira to Glenmark building a dermatology-led portfolio. On exports, the argument notes UK retailer Superdrug adding Indian brand Minimalist across sixty-four stores, helped by a new UK-India trade deal that scrapped beauty tariffs once as high as twenty-two percent. Dermatologists quoted in that reporting add that Indian consumers are increasingly seeking products backed by clinical evidence and dermatologist recommendations, rather than advertising claims. Now, a few more headlines moving the trade today. Global Cosmetics News reports GS Global has entered beauty distribution, launching three South Korean brands in Japan through premium retailer Cosme Kitchen. WWD reports Birchbox cofounder Katia Beauchamp is back with Buff Beauty, a twenty-two-product nail care line built on skin-care thinking, from formulas to tools. Also per WWD, GHD has launched Sculpt, its first consumer AI styling tool, which the brand says reads hair temperature nearly three thousand times a second for damage-free styling. And finally, Glossy reports dupe fragrance brand Oakcha is heading into hundreds of Ulta Beauty stores, its first move beyond online into physical retail.